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  Procion Print Paste Cellulosic Devoré Print Paste
  Acid Print Paste Wool Devoré Print Paste
  Disperse Print Paste Seersucker (Crimp) Print Paste
  Polychromatic Printing with Procion M Dye Felt Resist
  Discharge Print Paste Latex Printing on Stretchable Fabrics
  Colour Discharge Print Paste Heat Setting Knitted Polypropylene Fabrics

 

Procion Print Paste
 
The Procion M dyes may be mixed together in any proportion for printing, as may the Procion H dyes. However, do not use mixtures of Procion M with Procion H dyes.
Dissolve
   
0.1-5gms
  Procion Dyestuff
5gms
  Urea and
10mls
  Water
Then add
   
72gms
  Manutex RS
1ml
  Resist Salt
1-2gms
  Sodium Bicarbonate
Total of 100gms
   

Mix together thoroughly and print
After the print is dry it is fixed by steaming for 15 minutes.

Finally rinse well in cold water until it becomes reasonably clear then wash in a solution containing 1-2 parts liquid detergent per litre of warm water to remove any residual dyestuff, followed by a thorough rinse in cold water. Finally dry the fibre away from heat and direct sunlight.

 

Acid Print Paste
 
Dissolve
   
0.1-3gms
  Acid Dyestuff
5gms
  Glycerol
20mls
  Hot Water
Then add
   
60gms
  Manutex RS
2gms
  Ammonium Oxalate
5mls
  Hot water
Total of 100gms
   

Mix together thoroughly
After the print is dry it is fixed by steaming for 1 hour

Finally rinse well in cold water until it becomes reasonably clear then wash in a solution containing 1-2 parts liquid detergent per litre of warm water to remove any residual dyestuff, followed by a thorough rinse in cold water. Finally dry the fibre away from heat and direct sunlight.

 

Disperse Print Paste
 
Disperse
   
0.1-10gms
  Disperse Dyestuff
30mls
  water with 1-3 drops of liquid detergent
Then add
   
60gms
  301 thickening containing
2gms
  Perminal KB (Matexil WA - KB)
1gm
  Resist Salt L
Total of 100gms
   

Mix together thoroughly
After the print is dry it is fixed by steaming for 30 minutes

Finally rinse well in cold water until it becomes reasonably clear then wash in a solution containing 1-2 parts liquid detergent per litre of warm water to remove any residual dyestuff, followed by a thorough rinse in cold water. Finally dry the fibre away from heat and direct sunlight.

 

Polychromatic Printing with Procion M Dye

Dissolve
     
0.1-5gms
  Procion M Dyestuff  
5gms
  Urea and  
90mls
  Water  
Total of 100gms
     

Use this mixture to paint your design onto the mesh side of an open screen.
When the design on the screen is dry, print through a Manutex paste as follows-

95gms
  Manutex RS
1ml
  Resist Salt
4gms
  Sodium Bicarbonate (2gms for Silk)
Total of 100gms
   

After the print is dry it is fixed by steaming for 15 minutes.

Finally rinse well in cold water until it becomes reasonably clear then wash in a solution containing 1-2 parts liquid detergent per litre of warm water to remove any residual dyestuff, followed by a thorough rinse in cold water. Finally dry the fibre away from heat and direct sunlight.

 

Discharge Print Paste
 
All discharge pastes to be mixed, printed and steamed the same day
Dissolve
   
15gms
  Formosol
5gms
  Glycerol
20mls
  Warm water
Then add
   
60gms
  301 thickening
Total of 100gms
   

Mix together thoroughly
After the print is thoroughly dry it is fixed by steaming for 20 minutes.

Finally rinse well in cold water until it becomes reasonably clear then wash in a solution containing 1-2 parts liquid detergent per litre of warm water to remove any residual dyestuff, followed by a thorough rinse in cold water. Finally dry the fibre away from heat and direct sunlight.

 

Colour Discharge Print Paste
All discharge pastes to be mixed, printed and steamed the same day
Dissolve
   
15gms
  Formosol
5gms
  Glycerol
0.1-2gms
  pigment colour
Then add
   
60gms
  pigment binder
25gms
  301 thickening
Total of 100gms
   

Mix together thoroughly
After the print is thoroughly dry it is ironed then fixed by steaming for 20 minutes

Finally rinse well in cold water until it becomes reasonably clear then wash in a solution containing 1-2 parts liquid detergent per litre of warm water to remove any residual dyestuff, followed by a thorough rinse in cold water. Finally dry the fibre away from heat and direct sunlight.

 

Cellulosic Devoré Print Paste
For Burning Out Cellulosic Fibres
Dissolve
   
25gms
  Aluminium Sulphate
10gms
  Warm water
5gms
  Glycerol
Then add
   
60gms
  301 thickening
Total of 100gms
   

Mix together thoroughly and leave to stand for 30mins before use.

Print 2- 10 pulls depending on thickness of fabric to ensure complete penetration, or 4 pulls on the reverse of a velvet fabric. The screen should be washed immediately after printing.

The print is then dried thoroughly and then either baked at 140°C-180°C for 1-3mins (depending on fabric)
or until the printed area turns brown. Or in a heat press at 140°C-180°C for 1-3mins (depending on fabric).

Remove the fabric from the oven or heat press and in a well ventilated area and wearing a safety face mask, gently rub the fabric to loosen and free the carbonised fibers.

The fabric is then rinsed in cold water, then warm water with a little liquid detergent and then finally a cold rinse

 

Wool Devoré Print Paste
For Dissolving Out Protein Fibres
Dissolve
   
25gms
  Sodium Hydroxide
23gms
  Water
2gms
  Liquid Detergent
Then add
   
50gms
  301 thickening
Total of 100gms
   
Warning
  This mixture will become very hot
Wear gloves, face mask, eye goggles and apron.
 

After thoroughly mixing, allow the paste to cool before printing.

Print 2- 30 pulls depending on thickness of fabric to ensure complete penetration, the screen should be washed immediately after printing.

The print is then dried thoroughly then steamed for 20 mins to facilitate the reaction of the sodium hydroxide with the wool portion of the blend

Fabric finishing

Rinse the fabric in cold water for 10mins to swell the thickener, remove dissolved wool and dilute the sodium hydroxide, agitation and squeezing of the fabric being necessary to assist release of wool residues.

Rinse for a second time in hot water agitating gently for 5mins then squeeze. Finally rinse in a weak acetic acid solution to neutralize any residual alkali in the fabric then finally a cold rinse.

 

Seersucker (Crimp) Print Paste
All For 100% Cottons

This recipe is based on the action of a strong Sodium Hydroxide solution on cotton. When a thickened Sodium Hydroxide paste is printed, the Sodium Hydroxide shrinks the fibres, 'cockling' or 'crimping' the rest of the untreated cloth. The best results are obtained by printing at least 50% area of the fabric.

Print Recipe
   
10mls
  water
40gms
  Sodium Hydroxide
50gms
  301 thickener
Total of 100gms
   
Warning
  This mixture will become very hot
Use all the correct personnel protective measures.
 

After thoroughly mixing, allow the paste to cool before printing.
Print 2- 20 pulls depending on thickness of fabric to ensure complete penetration.
The screen should be washed immediately after printing.
The print is then taken off the table and allowed to dry thoroughly without heat or tension. Preferably over night.

The fabric is then washed in cold water for 15 minutes. Washed for a second time in hot water for
15 minutes. Finally rinse in a 5% acetic acid solution to neutralise any Sodium Hydroxide in the fabric.

 

Felt Resist

To create a piece of knitted wool fabric where some areas are felted and the others left un-felted, it is possible to print an area of felt resist. You will need loose thin wool fabric. If it is too dense there will be no room for it to shrink and felt, Too thick and the fabric will not absorb the felt resist through the yarn and the effect will not be both sided.

Resist paste Use the pre mixed Manutex with a little liquid detergent, around 2mls to 1ltr Manutex. The liquid detergent will help the paste to penetrate into the fibres.
 
   
Printing Using a round edged squeegee pull the Manutex through the design on your screen. You may need as many as 16 pulls. If the paste does not penetrate through the fabric it will not resist felting.
 
   
Drying Leave the fabric until completely dry, best to leave it overnight. Do not use heat to dry the print.
 
   
Alum Alum (potassium aluminium sulphate) will coagulate the Manutex (sodium alginate) into aluminium alginate, which will not be soluble.
You will need 1 litre of Alum solution per 100gms of fabric.
 
   
  1ltr warm water
100gms Alum
   
  Dissolve the Alum well and leave to cool. Place the printed fabric into the Alum solution and stir it gently for a couple of minutes. Rinse the fabric with cold water, the pattern should feel stiff and will resist felting.
   
Felting Felt your fabric in a washing machine with a few drops of liquid detergent @ 40-90°C for 15–60mins
 
   
Calgon Calgon will remove the Alum and the resist will be soluble again.
You will need 2 litres of Calgon solution per 100gms of fabric.
 
   
  2ltr warm water
100gms Calgon
   
  Dissolve the Calgon well and leave to cool. Place the felted fabric into the Calgon solution and stir it gently for a couple of minutes then leave soak for at least 2 hours.
   
Rinse Rinse the fabric in cool water until the fabric is clean. Add some acetic acid to the last rinse, this will neutralise the fabric and the handle will be softer.
 

 

Latex Printing on Stretchable Fabrics

To create a textural effect on any fabric with a good amount of stretch it is possible to print Latex onto the surface. The effect produced varies dependant on which pattern you print, creating raised or indented areas when you print dots or creating a puckered effect when you print stripes.
Latex can be mixed with pigment colours before printing
To successfully print with latex you must follow these steps.

1 Tape a sheet of plastic onto the calico covered table using masking tape. This will stop the latex from sticking to the calico.
 
   
2 Your fabric should then be stretched (as much as possible) and pinned on top of the sheet of plastic.
   
3 You should have your screen already prepared or have a paper stencil of the design you wish to produce.
 
   
4 Mix your latex with pigment colour if needed. Although you can print with latex on its own it may yellow with time.
 
   
5 Print with latex in the normal fashion, the number of pulls being dependant on the effect you require, but 2 pulls should be sufficient.
 
  **Do not pour latex onto your screen unless Robin is in the workshop. As he will need to clean the screen using the high-pressure jet as soon as you have finished printing**
   
6 Leave the fabric until completely dry, best to leave it overnight, after which it can be unpinned then peeled off the plastic
 
   
7 If you find that some of the latex areas stick together you can use a little talcum powder to dust the fabric.
 

 

Heat Setting Knitted Polypropylene Fabrics

Polypropylene (sometimes Duron CF on the label) is a filament yarn, which can be knitted and then heat set to create a rigid/semi rigid structure. It is a plastic yarn allowing it to melt slightly and set hard dependant on what temperature and length of time you leave it in the oven.

This can create many textural effects when knitted in combination with elastic yarns and can also produce a flat rigid structure when knitted on its own.


Great care must be taken when heat setting to ensure that the temperature is correct and that the fabric is removed from the oven before full melting takes place. You may need to make several attempts before you produce the desired effect you are looking for. Therefore the instructions below are there as a general guide.

1 Set the oven to 160°C
   
2 Pin your fabric onto the wooden frame (the correct size for the oven) using drawing pins and taking care to pin it the way you want it to set.
 
   
3 Make sure that the oven has reached the required temperature before sliding the frame
in to the oven
 
   
4 The fabric should be left in the oven for about 20-30 seconds until the polypropylene has changed in appearance and shrunk slightly
 
   
5 Remove the frame from the oven and tap the polypropylene to see if it is hard. If it is hard it is ready to be removed from the frame, if not, wait until the oven has regained temperature and try again.
 
   
6 If the polypropylene has been knitted with elastic then give it a good steam with an iron to shrink the elastic and set the shape. **Decide how you want the fabric to sit before steaming**
 

 

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